Assembly instructions for CTC Euroway 3D printer
- func_qbism
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Assembly instructions for CTC Euroway 3D printer
The CTC Euroway 3D printer (based on Prusa Reprap I3) is a good price on ebay, but instructions are hard to find (attached). Might post more when it's assembled and running.
UPDATE: parts list attached.
Welcome to Rivendale, Mister Anderson.
Re: Assembly instructions for CTC Euroway 3D printer
I have tried to use the manual you have provided here to assemble my printer. And either this isn't the correct manual for my printer or it's just really hard to assemble, I'm not eve sure where to go from here I bought my kit on ebay and no assembly directions were provided.
- func_qbism
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Re: Assembly instructions for CTC Euroway 3D printer
You may have a slightly different machine. Have you tried contacting the seller?Tob200 wrote:I have tried to use the manual you have provided here to assemble my printer. And either this isn't the correct manual for my printer or it's just really hard to assemble, I'm not eve sure where to go from here I bought my kit on ebay and no assembly directions were provided.
Mine did not come with instructions, either. Just a parts list (added to original post). But the seller sent me them after I emailed a request. Various similar but different machines have instructions online. First thing noticed was that some of the parts quantities were different, like only (8) M10 bolts were provided and other kits needed (12). Turns out (8) is enough for this design.
Welcome to Rivendale, Mister Anderson.
Re: Assembly instructions for CTC Euroway 3D printer
Same here!, it was a chore to assemble without that manual you posted I couldn't of done it! Do you know the calibration instructions, I have the same model as you, I've been messing with mine but I don't blew how to calibrate it but I seem to have everything hooked up correctn
- func_qbism
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Re: Assembly instructions for CTC Euroway 3D printer
This was a group project... I've emailed the expert about calibration instructions. Later I'll post a config file that works with PLA plastic and 0.4mm head.
Here's the first interesting thing I've made, an abstract building using Wings3D and Cura software. It's got 1/2" bridging! It worked, but that is about the limit. A couple sagging threads need trimmed.
Here's the first interesting thing I've made, an abstract building using Wings3D and Cura software. It's got 1/2" bridging! It worked, but that is about the limit. A couple sagging threads need trimmed.
Welcome to Rivendale, Mister Anderson.
- func_qbism
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Re: Assembly instructions for CTC Euroway 3D printer
Calibration:
for bed height-
put nozzle at each corner of the bed, and adjust it so that a piece of paper barely fits between the nozzle and bed. that should be proper bed height, to make sure you can print a object with a large first layer, and if you notice issues on a certain side, i.e-not a line, just dots means bed too low, very thin line or no line+extruder clicking means bed is too high and filament cant get out.
temp, print speed-
I use 180 degrees for nozzle, and 90 for bed (which is high, because I print directly onto glass to help it stick, could be lower if you use painters tape) when using PLA. Temp changes depending on your build and plastic, but generally ABS temps will be higher, around the 200 nozzle and 90-100 for bed, while PLA is lower. Print speed is more-so dependent on your machines build quality, and calibration quality, and how precise you want the part. If your machine misses steps or ruins a print, turn down the print speed. requires some experimentation but default splicer settings should be fine. Our machine runs a print speed of 80mm/s and a travel speed(when its not laying filament) of 150 mm/s, and it could go faster, but this speed gives good results.
let me know if there's anything i missed.
for bed height-
put nozzle at each corner of the bed, and adjust it so that a piece of paper barely fits between the nozzle and bed. that should be proper bed height, to make sure you can print a object with a large first layer, and if you notice issues on a certain side, i.e-not a line, just dots means bed too low, very thin line or no line+extruder clicking means bed is too high and filament cant get out.
temp, print speed-
I use 180 degrees for nozzle, and 90 for bed (which is high, because I print directly onto glass to help it stick, could be lower if you use painters tape) when using PLA. Temp changes depending on your build and plastic, but generally ABS temps will be higher, around the 200 nozzle and 90-100 for bed, while PLA is lower. Print speed is more-so dependent on your machines build quality, and calibration quality, and how precise you want the part. If your machine misses steps or ruins a print, turn down the print speed. requires some experimentation but default splicer settings should be fine. Our machine runs a print speed of 80mm/s and a travel speed(when its not laying filament) of 150 mm/s, and it could go faster, but this speed gives good results.
let me know if there's anything i missed.
Welcome to Rivendale, Mister Anderson.